The Tanzanian Life

Woof-ta! We made it to Hanga, but only after traveling for what felt like forever. African travel really does take a long time.

So, Father Nick and John arrived on Wednesday, December 30th and spent the remaining 5 days of my 6 months with me in Katibunga. It was enjoyable, but I feel as if we were all ready to move on by the end of the week. We celebrated New Years with a few beers which was nice. It is also great to be able to speak to others who are fluent in English. Even though the brothers of Katibunga know some English it still can be a process to communicate. However, I am quickly learning that the communication I had at Katibunga was much more than I have here in Hanga. Swahili it is.

We started our trek at 3:00AM on Monday the 4^th of January . We were lucky enough to get a ride in a car. We had to pay the monastery, but a car is better than a bus. Also, it is easier when dealing with luggage. John had a stomach ache when starting out and while traveling in Africa the last thing you want is a stomach ache. The lack of toilets, rough roads and long travel make for an unpleasant time. Yet, I think everyone of us experienced at least one stomach ache throughout the trip. Thankfully we never had to make any emergency stops in the bush. 

The point for leaving at 3:00AM was because we were hoping to be able to get all the way to Hanga in one day rather than spend a night in Mbeya, Tanzania. However, one thing you must do while traveling in Africa is never to wish for more or expect that something will go to plan.

After traveling for 8 hours we arrived at the Tanzanian/Zambian border at 11:00AM. Surprisingly enough things went fairly smooth. I presented my Visiting Permit to the border patrol and they then took my passport and stamped my departure from the country. The permit states that I am supposed to surrender it upon leaving the country, but the officer didn’t show much interest in me or my permit, therefore I now have a souvenir from my stay in Zambia. I am glad I am able to keep it because of the work I had to go through to get the damned thing.

Once finished with Zambia we moved to the Tanzanian border patrol office and started to fill out our information on why we were there, what we would be doing, who we were, blah, blah, blah. The visa, which is for 90 days, cost $100 USD. The officer processing our documents was actually from Hanga. She printed our visas which are actually just receipts which we must hold onto so we can present them upon our leave. Then we were stamped into Tanzania.

After the border we went to exchange our kwacha or “dirty kwach” which I have come to call it because of how dirty their currency gets (it literally looks as if they rubbed the bill in mud or other unsanitary grime). The exchange went well and now I have Tanzanian Schilling. Tanzanian Schilling is even worse or valued less than the kwacha. It’s amazing how these countries even stay afloat. $1 U.S. Dollar is equivalent to 2,200 Tanzanian Schilling. I pulled out 200,000 Tanzanian Schilling from the ATM a few days ago. I feel like a millionaire (which is what I should feel like because I am one when it comes to Tanzanian Schilling). So, if you hate your job you are welcome to call up your boss, quit and make a break for Tanzania. I am sure you would be able to live out your days without having to work another in your life.

So, there we were in Tunduma, the Tanzanian city that borders Zambia. Even though the 8 hour car ride was rough we had made it and crossed the border in fairly good time. Unfortunately, our luck seemed to have run out. Br. Simeon, who was in Tanzania for the past week, was supposed to meet us at the border to pick us up. They wouldn’t let us cross the border with a Zambian vehicle unless it is registered and that takes a week so we decided that this would be better. However, Br. Simeon had to run some errands and then make the two hour trek to Tunduma from Mbeya. As African time goes, two or three hours quickly turns into seven. We waited for seven hours for him to pick us up all while fending off people trying to sell us random things (the cities that are along the border are packed with people). We rolled in and our car was instantly surrounded with 15 to 20 people, no joke. It’s overwhelming.

Finally we were picked up and taken to Mbeya which is actually where I had spent my first night. By this time I felt like an 85 year old man. The car we were riding in has seats that face the side windows rather than the windshield. Therefore, my neck, back and butt were cramped beyond what I thought would be repair, a massive headache, a stomach ache and fatigue. I don’t think I have ever been so tired in my life. I’m not one to complain, this is just how I felt.

I am sure waking at 2:00AM, not eating or drinking any water and sitting in the car for that long had a lot to do with how I felt. Thankfully, I was able to rest up in Mbeya at the Benedictine guesthouse. I slept like a rock.

We woke the next morning, January 5^th, at 6:00AM and, after paying the monastery for transport, headed to Hanga Abbey. We arrived in the early afternoon. Finally, after so long, I was here. It was nice to arrive, get to my room and unpack and know that I no longer had to travel.

Hanga Abbey is much larger than Katibunga monastery. You could walk around Katibunga monastery in one minute. I have been here for multiple days and I don’t think I have seen all of Hanga. Hanga monastery is much more developed when it comes to business and guests. It runs a guesthouse (which is where I stay), has multiple farms and plantations for bananas, has a larger village community, multiple schools, a very large health clinic and even a surgery unit (for C-sections which I may be able to sit in on – we will see), a carpentry shop and more.

This isn’t to say the Hanga is better, but I do like the multiple options and larger community. In fact, Hanga Abbey is the largest monastery in the world when it comes to community members (monks). That’s pretty cool. I am unsure as of yet what I will focus my time on, but I will know soon. I may bounce around and try multiple things because why not :)

The health clinic is much more developed here. They even have equipment for dentists, eye doctors and sick bays. The sick bays are a bit depressing and hard to see. Some who are there are just getting over an illness like malaria (which is a serious illness, but is treatable if caught early), but others are very sick. It is hard to see and I feel as if a sick bay in rural Tanzania may be the last place one would want to live out their time.

I have not been able to check out the farms yet, but once I do I think it will be easier to make a decision on what I’d like to do. The carpentry shop could be fun and I know they want a tutor for English at one of the schools which I would be willing to do.

Tutoring one-on-one or in small groups is fun and a more relaxed setting than a classroom. Additionally, most volunteer positions in Africa (or any third world country) will require some educational advancement work which I think is good because it is needed. So, one must have in mind teaching when coming here.

There is an orphanage within the village which is also a possible option; however I want to get more information on it before deciding. I have heard there are not many kids there so that will influence my decision.

So, there are the main things so far. To get through some more facts quickly I will just list them.

• Swahili is the main language and barely anyone knows English. It is fun to be able to speak in English and know not many others understand what you are saying, but communicating is difficult. The little Swahili I have taught myself has come in handy, but I will need to learn more. Fr. Nick seems to have remembered a good amount from his time so I should be able to pick up a bit.

• The culture is a bit different here than in Zambia. One main thing I have noticed is the respect they give to age and intelligence. When a child approaches me it is common for them to say “Shikamo” which translates to “I am under your feet.” The correct and appropriate response which I say is “Marahaba” which translates to “Yes you are” and then I must bow to allow the child or person to touch my head. Right now your American cultural instinct just kicked in and said “Wow, Joseph, you’re an ass” and if I was in America saying this to another person I would agree, however I’m in Tanzania. This is very common. This is a sign of respect. In fact, if I didn’t acknowledge the statement I think it would be more disrespectful. Not bowing my head would send a message that they are unworthy of touching it. It is definitely something new to get used to. So, if we were to do this in America it would most likely be said to parents, teachers, doctors and others. The biggest problem I have with it is when an elderly person says it to me. I feel as if it is being said to me just because of my skin color which makes me feel bad. That isn’t the message I want to send.

• The food here has more variety than in Katibunga. In Katibunga the food was good, but it was always the same thing. Here there is at least some difference. Also, I think they always have beans for dinner which means every day is bean day and when it’s a bean day it’s a good day.

• There seems to be fewer spiders, but more mosquitoes. The opposite was for Katibunga. I hate spiders just as much as the next person, but when dealing with mosquitoes that are carriers of malaria you almost would rather have the spiders. It also doesn’t help that my new mosquito net has some holes in it. I have gone about placing tape over the larger ones to prevent any mosquitoes from getting in.

• The room is smaller here in Hanga and the architecture is a bit interesting. I am fairly sure I could pop-a-squat on the toilet while showering if I really wanted. No joke, the shower is within a foot or two of the toilet. Pretty funny actually.

• The bed is bigger, however. Additionally, they use a different outlet plug here, but good thing my converter/adapter has multiple functions and one of them is for Tanzanian outlets.

• It’s a bit hotter here in Hanga – at least it has been for the past couple of days. However, considering the Indian Ocean isn’t too far east of here there are frequent rains which help with the temperature.

• Taking a shower here is like becoming a victim of the Titanic tragedy. In Katibunga they had the water heated by the sun. I have heard the water here must be boiled over a woodstove of some sort or one can grab an electric pitcher (that is normally for heating water for tea) and use that. Maybe I’m too lazy or just don’t care enough, but I just deal with the cold. It is something you don’t think you’ll get used to but after so many cold showers you do. Additionally, most faucets here will have a hot and cold setting, but what is funny is that even if you use the hot nozzle cold water comes out.

• The water has a red tint to it. Very murky. It is common in Africa to have murky water so this isn’t too new, but they have stressed the importance of boiling the water. The guest master, Br. Germanos, helps us do so for meals. I am unsure if it is the water or variety of food, but the travel to Hanga has my stomach doing a 180. No big surprise when living in Africa I suppose. Ciprofloxacin has become my best friend and savior. This medication must have been crafted by the hands of God himself. 

•  Br. Romanos, Gabriel and a few others from Katibunga left back in September for Hanga and are still here. It has been nice to reunite and see them again.

• While in Mbeya I met a 23 year old by the name of Romanos (this seems to be a common name around here). I guess he really enjoyed speaking with me because at the end he gave me his bracelet as a sign of friendship. I told him that he didn’t have to but he insisted.

• I can hear something running in the ceiling above. I am sure there are many things up there that I don’t want to know about, but as long as they stay there then we won’t have any problems.

• I have heard there have been some salmonella problems involving the chickens. A number of chickens have died in the past weeks due to the disease. Hopefully it doesn’t begin to spread to their eggs.

• Laundry is done in a small 5-gallon bucket. Then once finished washing it is common to place your clothes on the grass to dry. There’s nothing like washing your clothes and then laying them on the ground ha. The murky-red water will probably have some effect on my clothes as well.

• There are more volunteers here. No one my age as of now, but there is an older couple from Oregon staying for the next week or two. They are nice and it’s also great to speak to someone who speaks fluent English. They must be close to 70+, but are very fun to speak and play cards with. Ed is a farmer and works at the local water plant and Jan was a teacher.

• It has been nice having Fr. Nick and John around. It sure is a different feel having people around again, but a nice one. Fr. Nick left this morning in order to visit one other monastery north of here before he heads home on the 14^th. John will be here until about the 10^th of February and then head home to attend Cornell University in New York City. He wants to become a P.A.

• Hanga has a bar and multiple shops which is nice. The bar is nice if I want to grab a local beer or some Stoney Twanganizi (the Tanzanian ginger ale soft drink that is awesome) and the shops are nice because they offer more than Katibunga’s. Here I can buy data for my internet modem that I am using now. This is huge because now I don’t have to drive into Songea every time to buy or use the modem. The cell tower is very close to the Abbey so I am able to access internet while in my room. Furthermore, considering the Tanzanian Schilling is dirt cheap the data for internet is cheap. We went into Songea today and were able to get ourselves a modem. We are hoping it works as well as we think it will. I also bought myself a football (soccer) jersey which is for Simba Sports (a football club in Tanzania). Simba Sports - how awesome is that name, though!

• The village just outside the Abbey is much larger. Many people live nearby. Additionally, Songea is about a 20 minute drive away. Songea is the larger city that Hanga village resides in. There  is a transport that goes into Songea everyday which is very nice. It cost 4,000 schilling round trip which isn’t bad. Also, the road is gravel, but it’s no “Highway to Hell” (Thank God!!). On this one you’re at least able to maintain a healthy speed. I don’t think I will need to head to Songea very much, but I am sure I will from time to time.

• All I want for Christmas is a toilet seat. Ha! My toilet has no seat to it. There was half of one (not sure how one cracks a toilet seat), but I’m sure you can imagine how uncomfortable that is to sit on so I got rid of that. I suppose I can’t complain because at least I have a toilet. Most places like restaurants, churches, schools, houses and gas stations just have holes in the ground. Also, most of the time you have to pay to use the hole!

Well…I have taken up enough of your time. I also don’t want to disclose everything in one post otherwise I won’t have anything to talk about for next time. So, for now, we are caught up!

It is very nice to be settled in. I have unpacked and made my small room my new home. I look forward to exploring more of Hanga and meeting the people that live here. It is a nice change and I know it will be good. Throughout this week I plan to continue working on my Swahili (because I may not survive otherwise) and figure out what I’d like to focus my time and energy on.

Now, I think I should be able to post every Wednesday and Saturday like usual. Woop woop!

I hope 2016 is treating you all well. Good luck with those New Year’s resolutions, you fools.

-       - From Hanga, Tanzania

Thanks for reading!